Tales of The Tatras Peaks IV - Last of the Lasts

21. 1. 2013, 17:23

Until august 1902 the Ostrý Peak was the last Tatras peak with a man on its top. Even experienced mountain guides called this tough peak "the bloody bastard". Thought Karol Englisch didn´t get appreciation for conquering of the unconquerable. Doubts about his more than 30 first ascents forced him to leave the Tatras. Who remained forever was Christian Kraft von Hohenlohe, the German Prince and the third richest man in Europe, in the period between 19th and 20th century. Without him the Tatras wouldn't look as we know them today. Hohenlohe´s marks remained in "his" animals, principles of nature protection and in folk's memories. Only a little step was necessary to remain a big part of the Tatras to stay in Slovak property. Edmund Téry celebrated his first ascent of Mount Prostredný hrot with a bottle of champagne. Maybe on his descent he came up with an idea of a mountain hut - today´s Téry hut. Prostredný hrot still attract mountaineers. Thanks to its unique slab with a crack in it. Best climbers, photographers and "spiders" couldn´t sleep because of it...

Tales of the Tatras Peaks IV


The man and the mountain. Face to face. Only one of them can be defeated. But not the mountain. No audience, no medals, no stage for winners. The award is something rare. Humbleness and knowledge. Mountains raise not only our sight but also our souls. In contrast to the earth gravity, the mountain gravity drags us up. Mountaineers are enticed not only by the Tatras giants but also peaks hidden in deep valleys and long ridges. Last in the valleys, last to conquer, but not last by their beauty.


Javorový štít 2424m

English: Maple Peak, Polish: Jaworowy Szczyt, German: Ahornsspitze, Uhrnspitze, Hungarian: Javorovacsúcs, Varangyóstavi csúcs

The Javorová Valley belongs to the most beautiful valleys in the High Tatras. Prince Christian Kraft von Hohenlohe bought it together with a huge part of the Tatras. He has built a little castle, imported deer on the north part of the Tatras and built the most beautiful European deer land. The Big Javorový Ridge with its highest Javorový Peak scared climbers away until a brave 16 years old student appeared in the valley. Englisch was fascinated by the peak. He hired the mountain guide Ján Hunsdorfer senior and together with his mother made a bid for the virgin summit on 13 August 1897.

First documented ascent in summer: 1897, K. Englisch, A. Englisch, J. Hunsdorfer
First documented ascent in winter: 1911, G. A. Hefty, G. Komarnicki

Ascent of the peak is possible with a mountain guide from Javorová dolina.


Ostrý štít 2360m

English: Sharp Peak, Polish: Ostry Szczyt, German: Spitzer Turm, Hungarian: Hegzestorony

The Ostrý Peak was the last Tatras peak with a man on its top. Early 20th century it hadn't been conquered, yet. The best mountaineers doubted his accessibility. After several attempts Karol Englisch doubted as well. However he made it.

First documented ascent in summer: 1902, K. Englisch, A. Englisch, J. Hunsdorfer, J. Strompf
First documented ascent in winter: 1911, J. Komarnicki, A. Grosz

Ascent of the peak is possible with a mountain guide from Veľká Studená dolina.


Prostredný hrot 2440m

English: Middle Pin, Polish: Pośrednia Grań, German: Mittelgrat, Hungarian: Középorom

In summer 1876, Edmund Téry and his guide Ján Still observed Mount Prostredný hrot from the Lomnický Peak. Everybody insisted on the peak's inaccessibility. He was interested even more. On 11 August 1876, they climbed Mount Prostredný hrot and placed a champagne bottle on its top containing a message in German and Hungarian. The slabs of Mount Malý hrot were one of the biggest climbing problems in the High Tatras in 1960s. Photographers, climber and spiders couldn´t sleep because of the slab.

First documented ascent in summer: 1876, P. Schwartz, E. Téry, S. Horvay, J. Still
First documented ascent in winter: 1904, K. Jordán, J. Lackner, J. Szelke, J. Breuer, P. Spitzkopf st.

Ascent of the peak is possible with a mountain guide from Malá Studená dolina.

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